Ueli Steck 攀登希夏邦马峰

tomlan

回首2015，SUUNTO运动大使“瑞士机器”Ueli Steck不仅在62天内连续攀登了82座4000米以上山峰，更是再次刷新了艾格峰北壁的速攀记录！说道2016年的计划，Ueli有意在8000米以上的希夏邦马峰南面攀登一条新路线，夏季则会参加一些超级越野马拉松，以此不断探索自己身体和技巧的极限：

http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMTQzNTczNzAwOA==.html

Ueli Steck 5月1日

我们完成了从南面攀登希夏邦马峰的准备工作。一切就绪，我们只需要等待温暖和稳定的天气。

tomlan

大本营的好天气。大卫G?ttler和我期待去爬山。但往高走，风依然强劲。

 

海拔6000米处

[此贴子已经被作者于2016-5-3 20:29:34编辑过]

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David G?ttler 5月1日

环境适应了，感觉不错，现在准备好了，但即使天气晴好的最后两天，气温还是蛮冷的。然而，我们从希夏邦玛ABC处垂直爬升1200米后，曾在一个山坳很不错，最适合的突击地点，海拔6900米处住了一夜。 ＃neverstopexploring@thenorthfaceeu@vivalpin@＃lowa.sportschuhe edelrid

[此贴子已经被作者于2016-5-4 20:17:03编辑过]

tomlan

Ueli Steck

昨天下午 3:56 · 

我们的（通讯）仍然没有很好的畅通。但是，这一周的天气看起来不错。大卫和我会在希夏邦马峰的南坡继续尝试攀登新路线。下个周末希望我们会回来。如果再有3G信号，我们将很快发布。

[此贴子已经被作者于2016-5-9 19:52:41编辑过]

tomlan

Ueli Steck

我们又回到了大本营。天气不是我们所期望的完美。不过本赛季还没有结束。现在，我们也不想错过任何好天气窗口。我们仍然激励着我们继续努力！

tomlan

Ueli Steck

  这些图片是大卫和我爬上希夏邦马峰南壁

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David G?ttler

昨天上午 11:50 · 

Late update from 14th: "Almost" doesn't mean the top, but for us it was a long and exciting day! Even with the deep snow and tough conditions. Thanks to @steckueli machine like trail-breaking quality we reached 7800m via the Girona Route 200m short of the summit. 21h round trip from ABC with a challenging descent in zero visibility due to thick afternoon fog covering the mountain. 
Now some good resting days in BC and hoping to get a good weather window soon for another go!
?#?neverstopexploring? @thenorthfaceeu @thenorthface @lowa.sportschuhe @vivalpin ?#?edelrid?

tomlan

Without one full day of good weather we still climbed a lot. @david_goettler and I climbed the Girona Route up to 7800 meters followed by the British Route to 7600m. Both in a single push up and down. It was interesting to see what it takes to climb in bad conditions on such a huge face. Until now I always climbed single pushes on 8000 meter Peaks, and in ideal conditions and weather. This time we were forced to climb in difficult conditions. Both times we went as far as wecould in terms of taking risk and staying safe. Unfortunately we did not have a whole day of good weather the entire trip, instead we had daily strong winds or precip. Not ideal for climbing 8000 peaks. In one way, you always like to reach the summit, but on the other hand we climbed a lot and we are coming back with a huge amount of experience! Thanks to David for such a great trip. It feels great to know we pushed ourselves and at least tried to climb! If I look back on the last two months, we simply had a great time. Climbing Island Peak from Chukhung, running the 3 Passes in a day, and finally doing laps on a 8000 meter Peak! I look forward to the next trip with David. We definitely reached our goal this trip: come back stronger!

Nice climbing on the British Route

Allways strong winds or precip!

All the way up fresh snow

Early morning still good weather. Unfortunately at 11.00 am we had to turn back again because of bad weather.