<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 28pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt"><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>贵州日报策划了<span lang="EN-US">“</span>《原生态的力量<span lang="EN-US">——</span>一个策划人眼中的贵州》大型文化访谈活动之余秋雨黔东南行<span lang="EN-US">”</span>，邀请到著名学者、作家余秋雨先生走进黔东南苗族侗族自治州，对苗乡侗寨的原生态文化一路品读，一路思考，结束黔东南之行后，余秋雨先生在他的博客中陆续推出《黔东南考察手记》，引来许许多多网友和读者对黔东南原生态文化的浓厚兴趣和无限向往。黔东南自此也成了我的梦想之一。<span lang="EN-US">2013</span>年的春节，伴着在迎春爆竹的余香，<span lang="EN-US">2</span>月<span lang="EN-US">10</span>日（大年初一）我们<span lang="EN-US">2</span>台车、<span lang="EN-US">10</span>个人踏上了魂牵梦绕的黔东南之行。</strong></font></span></p>
<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 28pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt"></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt" lang="EN-US"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong> </strong></font></p>
<p><font size="4"><strong><font color="#000000"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma">（一）西江的美丽超乎想象</span><font face="宋体"> </font></font></strong></font></p>
<p><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma"><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>（二）郎德上寨坚守着原生态</strong></font></span></p>
<p><span style="COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma"></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt" lang="EN-US"><o:p><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>春节的行程虽然中断，黔东南的神秘依然吸引着我，终于在一个月后得以继续未走完的行程。</strong></font></o:p></span></p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 14pt" lang="EN-US"><o:p>
<p><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>（三）黎波--小七孔<span>水花竞放</span>跳跃着快乐</strong></font></p>
<p><font size="4"><font face="宋体"><strong><font color="#000000">（四）榕江的古榕树<span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; COLOR: #343434; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? ;? ??? ??; 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: mso-ascii-font-family: mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: New?>是力量和历史的扭结</span></font></strong></font></font></p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; COLOR: #343434; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? ;? ??? ??; 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: mso-ascii-font-family: mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: New?><font color="#000000" size="4"><strong>（五）肇兴返璞归真的生活画卷</strong></font></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; COLOR: #343434; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? ;? ??? ??; 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: mso-ascii-font-family: mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: New?><font size="4"><strong><font color="#000000">（六）<font face="宋体"><span>时光边缘的村落--堂安</span></font></font></strong></font></span></p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; COLOR: #343434; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times new=" AR-SA? ;? ??? ??; 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: mso-ascii-font-family: mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: New?><font size="4"><font size="3"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 仿宋_GB2312; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 15pt; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">
<p><font size="4"><font face="宋体"><strong><font color="#000000">（七）小黄的<span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times new=" 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: mso-ascii-font-family: mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: New? mso-bidi-font-size: AR-SA; 12.0pt? new="New" ?Times>侗族大歌一种无法复制的美</span></font></strong></font></font></p>
<p><font size="4"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; FONT-SIZE: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times new=" 1.0pt; mso-font-kerning: Roman?; mso-hansi-font-family: mso-ascii-font-family: mso-bidi-language: ZH-CN; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-ansi-language: New? mso-bidi-font-size: AR-SA; 12.0pt? new="New" ?Times><font color="#000000" size="4"><strong> </strong></font></p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 仿宋_gb2312; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: arial; mso-hansi-font-family: arial; mso-ansi-language: en-us; mso-fareast-language: zh-cn; mso-bidi-language: ar-sa"><font size="4"><font color="#000000" face="宋体"><strong>（八）岜沙--最后的一个火枪部落</strong></font></font></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 仿宋_gb2312; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: arial; mso-hansi-font-family: arial; mso-ansi-language: en-us; mso-fareast-language: zh-cn; mso-bidi-language: ar-sa"><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>（九）传统建筑和现代钢筋混凝土建筑最完美结合----三江风雨桥</strong></font></span></p>
<p><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 仿宋_gb2312; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: arial; mso-hansi-font-family: arial; mso-ansi-language: en-us; mso-fareast-language: zh-cn; mso-bidi-language: ar-sa"><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>（十）线条行云流水，规模磅礴壮观----龙脊梯田</strong></font></span><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 仿宋_gb2312; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: arial; mso-hansi-font-family: arial; mso-ansi-language: en-us; mso-fareast-language: zh-cn; mso-bidi-language: ar-sa"><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong> </strong></font></p>
<p><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>（十一）桂林山水甲天下--名不虚传 </strong></font></p>
<p><font color="#000000" size="4" face="宋体"><strong>（十二）南岳衡山--五岳独秀</strong></font></p></span></span></font></span></font></font></span></o:p></span></o:p></span>
[此贴子已经被作者于2015-12-29 9:47:08编辑过]
<p><strong><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">（一）西江的美丽超乎想象</span></strong><strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span></span></strong><strong><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">第一站是西江“千户苗寨”。</span></strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black"> 西江苗族的历史非常悠久，可以追溯到公元前<span lang="EN-US">559</span>年的蚩尤部落。据说西江苗族是蚩尤第三个儿子的后裔，</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma">为了求生存，跌跌绊绊地走了几千年，最后到了一个终点</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">------</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma">西江千户苗寨。</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black"> <span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/307611.htm" target="_blank"><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: black"><span lang="EN-US">西江</span></span></a></span>千户苗寨，位于贵州省黔东南<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/2725.htm" target="_blank"><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: black"><span lang="EN-US">苗族</span></span></a></span>侗族自治州<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/1288832.htm" target="_blank"><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: black"><span lang="EN-US">雷山县</span></span></a></span>东北部的雷公山麓，距离县城<span lang="EN-US">36km</span>，距离黔东南州州府<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/31411.htm" target="_blank"><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: black"><span lang="EN-US">凯里</span></span></a>35km</span>，距离省会<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/335579.htm" target="_blank"><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: black"><span lang="EN-US">贵阳市</span></span></a></span>约<span lang="EN-US">260km</span>。由十余个依山而建的自然村寨相连成片，是目前<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/61891.htm" target="_blank"><span lang="EN-US" style="COLOR: black"><span lang="EN-US">中国</span></span></a></span>乃至全世界最大的苗族聚居村寨。是一个保存苗族<span lang="EN-US">“</span>原始生态<span lang="EN-US">”</span>文化完整的地方。</span><strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold"><o:p></o:p></span></strong></p>
<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 27.45pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.96"><strong><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">早上</span></strong><strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">6:30</span></strong><strong><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">从青山出发，经过</span></strong><strong><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">12</span></strong><strong><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-bidi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-ascii-font-family: Tahoma; mso-hansi-font-family: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold">小时的行程，在华灯初上的傍晚我们到达了“千户苗寨”。</span></strong><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"> </span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial">夜晚的苗寨</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">,</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial">家家户户都点亮屋檐上挂的灯</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">,</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial">山上山下星星点点</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">,</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial">，层层错落的吊脚楼若隐若现显得庄严而神秘，让我们这些刚刚经过了长途跋涉的人恍如穿越了时间隧道，对寨子充满了神秘的遐想。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><font size="4">千户苗寨夜景</font></p>
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<p><font size="4"> 可能是大年初一的原因，街上的游人不多，两旁的店家多数已经打烊，但屋檐下的灯都亮着，走在鹅暖石的街道上，空中飘着如雾的细雨，夜色中的苗寨宁静、清幽。</font></p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 11:36:40编辑过]
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<p> <font size="4">在贵州高原苗岭山区行走，只要看到吊脚楼上安装有美人靠，那一定是苗族民居无疑。美人靠，又称“吴王靠”、“飞来椅”，是建筑学上的一个术语。乍一听这名词，很容易让人想起江浙一带的园林建筑。殊不知，苗岭山区也有美人靠，苗族村民称为“豆安息”，其实就是安装在建筑物上当靠背用的弯曲形栏杆。由于苗族村民多在依山傍水的山间河谷地带安家落户，其住房也多是背山面水面立，故在美人靠上凭栏远眺，总能饱览赏心悦目的山区景色。</font></p>
<p><font size="4">这就是传说中的“美人靠”</font></p><br/>
[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 11:42:03编辑过]
<p><font size="4"> 咚咚的鼓声伴着舞曲的节奏突然在寨子里响起，游人纷纷聚集而来，一房子的鼓挂满了墙壁，让我们初步领略到了这个能歌善舞的民族的奔放、豪爽。</font></p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 12:36:18编辑过]
<p><font size="4">敲鼓的男孩——酷毙了</font></p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 12:37:18编辑过]
<p><font size="4">对酒当歌和沉石鼓没有敲响，心情放飞了</font></p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 12:39:22编辑过]
<p><font size="4"> 苗族谚语说：“姑娘不绣花，找不到婆家。”苗族服装经久不衰，与特殊风俗、文化传统有着十分密切的关系。青年人在恋爱婚姻中常用鞋垫、花带、荷包、背袋等等，作为勤劳、智慧、富有的象征，爱慕、思恋、忠诚的信物。结婚礼服更为讲究，新娘子将从小在先辈指导下精心制作的结婚服装统统穿出来，认为越多越勤劳，越勤劳越富有，越富有越美丽。服装数量的多少，制作工艺的优劣，被视为衡量新娘智商的尺度，步入人生的“文凭”。<font size="4">苗族姑娘们都要在开放式绣花房---“美人靠”里秀出她们的嫁衣。</font></font></p>
<p><font size="4"> 苗绣的精美自然是无与伦比的，当然价格不菲</font></p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 11:46:06编辑过]
<p><font size="4"></font> 在西江千户苗寨的夜色阑珊中，给大家逐步进行人物介绍：美女小帅被精美的苗族服饰所吸引</p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 11:58:06编辑过]
<p><font size="4">彩虹</font></p>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2013-2-18 11:59:19编辑过]
<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 28pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black">苗族银饰以其鲜明的特色在中国苗族银饰文化中占有极其重要的地位。苗族女子节日盛装的银冠，银角和银凤雀等头饰雍容华贵，连小姑娘都头戴华丽的银冠。西江有远近闻明的银匠村，苗族银饰全为手工制作，其工艺具有极高水平。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p style="TEXT-INDENT: 27.45pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.96"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial">苗家人是善良而朴实的，找到一家客栈，老板很实在，尽心为我们服务，价格也公道。这是一个典型的苗家吊脚楼，晚上住进去的时候未细看，第二天一早坐在楼上的“美人靠”里，在晨雾中望望远处烟雾缭绕的群山，看看近处姿态各异的吊脚楼，楼下不时的有头戴艳丽花朵的苗家女婀娜飘过</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">……</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial">西江为我们揭开了她美丽的面纱。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p><font size="4">美女彩虹和我们住宿的客栈</font></p>
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